CHIAVARI,
Italy - In many families, including my own, Christmas Eve dinner has always
been a traditional feast of pasta, fish, salads, vegetables and lots and lots
of cookies and cakes. In other words meatless.
No
one ever seemed to notice there was no meat on the table as they dug into
ravioli filled with potatoes or cabbage and sometimes even blueberries picked
in the heat of the summer and frozen just for this occasion. Then platters of
fried fish, big fish, little fish, whole fish and breaded fish filets and even
pickled raw fish, which my Uncle John loved best, would be set out, along with
salads and vegetables and pretty dishes filled with olives and pickles and
special Christmas treats.
 |
| Naples Galleria Umberto I (photo by Fabrizio Reale) |
In
Italy, Christmas Eve dinners, like everywhere else, tend to be
traditional. Every province, actually every family, has its own list of
dishes, recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation, that
make not just Christmas Eve, but the entire Christmas season special. And
every cook knows that half of the fun of the holidays is making the dishes that
everyone looks forward to.
 |
| Pappacelle Peppers |
As I
write this I’m sure that there are conversations going on all over Italy as one
by one it’s verified that yes, Auntie X will make her special cannelloni and
Auntie Y will bring a tray of those delicious Christmas cookies she made
last year along with her famous Christmas cake. It just wouldn't be Christmas
without one of Auntie Y's special cakes.
One
of the dishes that says Christmas to Neapolitan families is a delicious salad
called Insalata di Rinforzo which is served on Christmas Eve along with the
fish course. I don’t want to ruffle anyone’s feathers, but truth be told there
are as many recipes for Insalata di Rinforzo as there are streets in Naples.
Well, almost.
 |
| Spicy Green Olives, Soooo Good. |
The
basic recipe includes boiled cauliflower, red and green papaccelle peppers,
those small, hot, pickled squatty peppers called papaccelle that are so popular
in Campagna, olives and anchovies. However, if you can’t find papaccelle
peppers in your supermarket you can use some other kind of hot pickled peppers
or as a last resort a jar of giardiniera mix and a jar of roasted peppers in
oil.
Keep
in mind this is an Italian recipe so the ingredients are only a suggestion, not
a mandate and other recipes for an insalata di rinforzo may call for the
addition of escarole, croutons, artichoke hearts, capers and even hard boiled
eggs.
For
the sake of simplicity, here’s a recipe created by native Neapolitan Guiseppe
Topo that is straight-forward, easy to make and really delicious. And don’t be
afraid of the anchovies. Eaten with the rest of the ingredients they are
scrumptious, they really are.
 |
| Giuseppe Topo's Insalata di Rinforzo |
Insalata
di Rinforzo
1
head of cauliflower
2 – 3 red and green papaccelle peppers – pickled peppers in a jar can be used as a substitute
200 grams mixed green and black olives
Salted Anchovies
Oil
Vinegar
Salt
2 – 3 red and green papaccelle peppers – pickled peppers in a jar can be used as a substitute
200 grams mixed green and black olives
Salted Anchovies
Oil
Vinegar
Salt
Method
Cut
the green leaves and the stem from the cauliflower
Boil in salted water until tender, 15 – 20 minutes
Drain the cauliflower and when it is cool enough to handle, break it up into bite size flowerets
Remove the seeds and slice the peppers
Add sliced peppers and olives to taste and toss
Condition with oil, vinegar and salt to taste and toss well
Top with anchovies
Boil in salted water until tender, 15 – 20 minutes
Drain the cauliflower and when it is cool enough to handle, break it up into bite size flowerets
Remove the seeds and slice the peppers
Add sliced peppers and olives to taste and toss
Condition with oil, vinegar and salt to taste and toss well
Top with anchovies
Easy peasy,
give it a try. Merry Christmas.
No comments:
Post a Comment