CHIAVARI,
Italy - This eggplant recipe was classified on an Italian web site as a casalese specialty, but since I didn’t know who the Casalese were, I googled them. Much to my
surprise it turns out the only casalesi I found was a clan of Casalesi in the
province of Caserta, and they appear to be a cast of pretty rough characters. It
was eminently clear that the Caserta Casalesi walk around saying things like
‘how you doin’’ and taking care of business and that they were not the casalesi I was
looking for. I was looking the casalesi who hang around their kitchens cooking
eggplants. Sorry guys, my mistake.
Castelbordino, Abruzzo |
So I
tried the goodle search it again. Nothing. I found casolani in Casoli and
calascini in Calascio, castellatesi in Castellalto, castellani in Castelli and
just as I was about to give up, there it was, casalesi in Castelbordino, province
of Chieti, in Abruzzo. If it’s the right place, and I’m sure that it is, Castelbordino
is a small town of about 6,000 people that has been around for a long time.
Actually make that a really long time as archealogists have found traces of
civilization there that date back to the XI century BC. It looks like a nice town, a pretty town, the
kind of town where people really do hang around in their kitchens stuffing and cooking
eggplants. The kind of town you’d want to live in.
It’s
almost a miracle that anything, especially culinary traditions, survived in Abruzzo
given the area’s turbulent history. Even if you start in the middle of their
history when the Romans and the Goths battled it out during the Gothic War, pretty
much whatever there was of value in Abruzzo, was destroyed. Then, when the
German Lombards, the Normans and God
only knows who else came along, all
hell broke loose and actually, from that point on and centuries after, it was
one war after another each one doing as much or more damage than the one before
it.
So I
have to thank whoever it was that had the good sense to pass this recipe down
through the generations because it’s very good. There was something about it
that intrigued me, although I confess when it was cooking, and the once shiny
and round eggplants were all wrinkled and kind of shriveled up, I was feeling a
little less enthusiastic about it. But I kept going.
Like
many home style Italian recipes there are no specific amounts given. How much
of one thing or another you use depends on how much you are making. This is a
recipe for experienced cooks, cooks who cook by ‘eye’, or as my friend Gary
likes to say, ‘by the seat of their pants’, although I never did understand how
the seat of your pants has anything to do with cooking. Doesn’t matter, I still
love him and he is an amazing cook, so I guess it works. Here’s the recipe,
with some of my observations added in.
These Look a Lot Better Than Mine |
Stuffed Eggplants Casalesi (Abruzzo)
Style
Cut off the stems. Scoop out the raw eggplants with a paring knife and carefully
remove the interior flesh so as not to break or puncture the small eggplants. I
found that a knife with a serrated edge worked best, especially on the little
eggplants that I used.
Put
the scooped out eggplant pulp in a colander and rinse it under running water to
remove the seeds. This is actually a very good addition to the filling; you
just need to chop it up into small bits. But if you use the very small
eggplants like I did, there really isn’t a lot pulp, but I did use what I had.
I rinsed out the eggplants after I cleaned them out though.
Make
a filling using sausage meat, the insides of the eggplant, day-old breadcrumbs,
eggs, chopped fresh tomato, grated cheese, chopped basil and parsely. Instead
of that filling, I used sausage, the little bit of eggplant pulp I had, a
chopped onion, a very little bit of very finely diced celery, anise seeds and
an Italian roll that I chopped up into very small pieces. A food processer
would have done a better job on the roll, but it was OK. And before I stuffed
the eggplants I grated some Pecorino Romano over the filling and mixed it in.
Fill the scooped out eggplants with the bread and sausage
filling and sauté them in some olive oil until they are wrinkled.
At this point you can make a simple tomato sauce using: 1/4 cup
olive oil, 1 garlic clove, 4 or 5 fresh tomatoes or 1 large can of tomatoes,
fresh parsley and basil, salt and black pepper - simmer for 15 minutes. I used
a small can of polpa di pomodoro, which is chopped up tomatoes, some tomato
paste which I diluted using a little boullion (brodo), made from a boullion
cube and a little fresh rosemary.
When the sauce had cooked long enough, I added the stuffed
eggplants and cooked everything together for another half an hour on a low
flame. It smelled delicious.
Because I grew up in the States and like one dish meals, I
boiled some pasta – pacheri to be precise – and put it with the the sauce and the
eggplants. There are no photos of this because by then I was starving and so I took
a vote as to whether I should just sit down and eat or take some photos, and taking
photos lost. Buon appetito.
p.s. it's probably best if you don't use big eggplants for this recipe, they would be difficult to handle, smallish eggplants would be best. The baby ones I used were ok, but I wouldn't use them again simply because they took forever to scoop out.
p.s. it's probably best if you don't use big eggplants for this recipe, they would be difficult to handle, smallish eggplants would be best. The baby ones I used were ok, but I wouldn't use them again simply because they took forever to scoop out.
Thanks go to casa-giardino.blogspot.it for the original recipe
and the photo of the finished dish
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