CHIAVARI, Italy – Having
truffles on their eggs in the morning is not a big deal for most of the
families who live in the hills of Piedmont, in northern Italy. They have
grown up, gotten married and raised their children all the while enjoying that
lumpy tuber not just on eggs, but on pasta and steak and whole bunch of other
foods as well. And why not. They live in truffle country and on any given day
they can take a walk in the woods and dig up a truffle or two.
An Early Morning Walk in Search of Truffles |
But it isn’t the Italians
who are caught up in the current truffle frenzy, it’s the rest of the world. Even if
an Italian doesn’t have the possibility of digging up his own truffles you’d never
catch him doing what Vladimir Potanin, a business magnate from Russia did at
the recent truffle auction in Alba. For two kilos (four pounds give or take a
few ounces) of truffles, Mr. Potanin paid $95,000.
And that wasn’t even the
most expensive sale of the day. Later that same afternoon an unnamed buyer from
Hong Kong, purportedly a famous Chinese writer bidding via satellite telephone,
forked over $120,000 for two truffles that weighed about 470 grams, about1lb
each, three times the price of gold.
Here's One |
And those are only the sales
we know about. There are others, secret sales that take place along the foggy
country roads along the edge of the forest. Most certainly those meetings take place far
from the sellers hunting grounds, for a truffle hunter, called a ‘trifolau’, protects
his territory with more fervor than a drug dealer. Sometimes truffles are bought and sold out of
the back of a van, or in the back room of some nondescript building in the
middle of nowhere. You may not hear about those deals, but they are happening.
The prized truffles of Alba have gone global and foodies have gone bezerk.
Truffles have been on the
table in Italy since the days of the Romans, and they actually learned about
them from the Etruscans. Of course they had no idea of what truffles were or
how they were formed, but they knew they were good. They believed it was
Jupiter, the King of the Gods, throwing thunderbolts near oak trees that caused
the mud on the roots of the tree to create a truffle. And because everyone knew
Jupiter was a rootin’ tootin’ sex machine, truffles had to be an aphrodisiac. It
just made sense.
The Pair Inspect Their Find |
The culprit was never the truffle,
but androstenol, a sex pheromone that gives truffles its musky smell and taste
and draws us to them. And we are not
alone. The same sex pheromone is found in boar saliva and it drives female pigs
to distraction. That’s why pigs, and not dogs, were first used to hunt truffles.
The only problem was pigs would often eat the truffles they found before the
truffle hunter had a chance to snatch them away. Dogs are much more agreeable.
Here's a Good One |
Training a truffle dog is a
slow process and starts with the trainer putting truffle oil on the teats of nursing
dogs to help imprint the scent on the pups. When the pups gets a little older
trainers soak balls in truffle oil and use them for the puppies to fetch. That
teaches the pups to associate that smell with the chase. As the dogs gets
older, they start hiding the truffle scented balls under leaves and then
burying them in the ground to improve the dog's detection skills. All in all it
takes about four years to train a truffle dog.
And while
both male and female dogs can be truffle hunters, most trainers agree that
female dogs are better. A female dog
will find the truffle and show you where it is; a male dog will find it,
dig it up and then he’ll run away. The ‘trifolau’ has to
step in right at the point when the leaves and dirt first go flying. He then carefully scrapes away at the dirt
until he comes to the hidden treasure, that strange, lumpy tuber that has
become the world’s most expensive food.
And Now, For the Final Test |
The money raised at the 14th
edition of the White Truffle of Alba auction will be given to the Piedmont
Foundation for Cancer Research for the purchase of a CAT scanner for the
"San Lazzaro" hospital in Alba. The money raised by the Hong Kong
sale will go to the Mother's Choice Institute in Hong Kong, which cares for
orphans and mothers in difficulty, the organizers said. The next white truffle
fair and auction will be held in Alba, Italy from October 11th to
November 2014, every Saturday and Sunday.
For more information about
the Alba Truffle Fair:
+39 0173 361 051
Photos by Stefano Rellandini
Phyllis, you said it "the foodies have gone berzerk". It seems to me that whatever is trending, is the best food you could eat. I myself have never had truffles or truffle oil or anything of the sort. I'm not a trendy type of cook. My impression is that a lot of people base their opinion of food depending on the availability or lack there of and the exorbitant price to determine what food are at the top of the desirable list.
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