Chiaviari, Italy - You can
call them chiacchiere, or you can call them frappe or bugie or
even guanti, but in reality they are all basically the same confectioner
sugar dusted fried cookie that signal the start of Carnival in Italy.
Frappe' |
My Aunt Louise had a little business in Schenectady, New York called the Old
Country Bakery, and guanti were the specialty of the house. But the cookies my
Aunt Louise made were a little different than the ones I see here in Italy. Hers
were bigger and looked like bow ties. Here they simply cut the dough into
strips and fry it. It’s certainly easier and faster but there are fewer nooks
and crannies for the powdered sugar to hide, and that’s what makes them so lip
smacking good.
Carnival as we know it today started out as a Pagan Roman festival called the Saturnalia. It was the only time of the year when slaves and their masters, with their faces hidden behind masks, could eat, drink, dance and make merry together. And then along came Christianity with a whole new set of rules, none of which included eating, drinking or dancing in the streets.
Chiacchiere Pugliese |
But Saturnalia was so much
fun no one wanted to give it up, so the eat, drink and make merry part was
incorporated into the Christian religious, but with a slight twist.
The Christians started the transformation by giving the festival a new name: Carnivale. While it sounds festive to us now, the word comes from the Latin “caro” meat and “vale”, farewell, which, when you put them together really means say bye bye to meat and hello to those 40 days of abstinence known as Lent. And so that's where we are.
Ceni Toscani |
Sometimes I wonder what kind
of Italy I would be living in if the Roman emperor Flavius
Valerius Constantinus, aka Constantine the Great, hadn't supported Christianity.
Would I be out dancing in the streets of Chiavari this week throwing confetti
in the air? Probably.
Before I get too carried
away, here’s a recipe for those, ahh, whatever you want to call them cookies.
Makes about 4 dozen cookies
Ingredients
1- ½ cups all purpose flour (plus ½ cup for kneading and
rolling)
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teasp Kosher salt (or 1/8 teasp table salt)
2 large eggs
4 tablespoons water* (see note below)
5 tablespoons butter melted and cooled (has to be cool so
it doesn’t cook the eggs)
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract or 2 teaspoons lemon zest
1 egg white for forming the bows
*You can also use rum, grappa, anisette or whiskey in
place of all or part of the water
Directions:
1 – Make the dough: Whisk together the flour, baking
powder and salt in a bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl whisk the eggs and
water until thoroughly mixed. Add the cooled melted butter and whisk again.
Finally whisk in the vanilla extract and lemon extract. (The lemon extract may
curdle the mix a bit but just blend it smooth). Stir in flour mixture a little
at a time until a dough forms.
2 – Knead the
dough: The dough will be wet and sticky
at this point so using your hands, knead in the remaining ½ cup of flour, a
little at a time until the dough is soft, smooth and relatively dry. Be careful
not to over knead or the cookies won’t be tender.
Let the dough rest at room temperature for about 30
minutes.
3 – Roll out ½ of the dough: On a well floured surface,
with a floured rolling pin, roll out the dough to a thin layer – the thinner
your dough the crispier the cookies will be. You can use a pasta rolling
machine for this step if you want.
4 – Slice dough into ribbons. After the dough is rolled
flat slice the dough into long strips 1-1/2 inches wide. Slice these strips to
get ribbons of about 4 inches long. You can use a pizza cutter to get a nice
edge on the cookies, but a sharp knife works just as well. At this point you
can roll out the rest of the dough or you can wrap it in plastic wrap for
another day.
5 - Form ribbons
into bows: Place a bit of beaten egg white in the center of each strip – do
this with your finger – this will hold the dough together. Pinch the centers
together to form a bow. To secure it, fold that pinch over one more time
otherwise it may come apart during frying.
6 - Fry the bows
in hot oil, 1 ½ to 2 inches of oil, in a deep frying pan. Using a slotted spoon, scoop them out when
they are golden brown and drain on paper towels. Dust the cookies with confectioners’
sugar or warmed honey while they are still warm.
Bow Ties |
Thanks to:
http://www.mysteryloverskitchen.com for the recipe
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