CHIAVARI, Italy - Every
region has its own special pasta. In Sicily, in the region around Trappani, the
special pasta is busiate, thin tubes of pasta, about 2 1/2 inches/7 cm long and
½ inch/4 mm in diameter. Like other pastas popular in southern Italy,
busiate are made with double processed hard wheat and water and no eggs.
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| Busiate alla Trapanese |
In Trapani busiate are
served with a special type of pesto called pesto trapanese. Trapani and Genova
are both port cities and it was the Genovese sailors who introduced the Trapanese
to the concept of pesto. Then the Trapanese took the Genovese pesto, which is made
from basil and pine nuts, and added tomatoes, and almonds and turned it into
pesto trapanese.
While the Genovese have official
pesto recipes, in Trapani official recipes for pesto trapanese do not really
exist. In Sicily you will find a variety of versions, with and without pecorino
(Sicilian pecorino), and British chef Nigella Lawson adds capers, raisins,
anchovies and red hot pepper flakes. The recipe that follows is one that you
will find in osterias and trattorias in and around Trapani. There are not a lot
off ingredients but the flavor is superb.
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| Busiate |
BUSIATE ALLA TRAPANESE
(2 large or 4 small
portions)
1 cup/125 ml water
PESTO
TRAPANESE
¼ lb plus 1 more/300 grams ripe
tomatoes
a little under 2 ounces/50 grams
peeled almonds
extra virgin olive oil
6-12 basil leaves, plus a few more
for garnish
1 clove of garlic
Salt
Black pepper (optional)
To
Make the Pasta
Add
enough water to make a compact dough. The actual amount of water you will need
will depend on the level of humity of the flour, so it’s important to add the
water a little at a time. If your dough is still too sticky, add a little more
flour.
Take out the mixing element
and put in the dough kneading element and knead the dough for 5-10 minutes at
medium speed – or until the dough is smooth and elastic.
Wrap the
dough in Saran Wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for about half an
hour.
When you
are ready to make the busiate, take a piece of pasta dough and roll it out with
your hands until it is long and round. It does not have to be perfect. Then cut
the dough into pieces approximately 1.5” long/3.5 cm. If some pieces are
thicker than others, cut them shorter.
Cut the
dough into pieces.
Take a
wooden or metal skewer and put it on a piece off dough.
Roll it
back and forth with your hand until you have made a thin cylinder around the
skewer.
The
cylinder should be about 3 inches long. If it comes out longer, roll it until
it is just a little thinner and then cut it into shorter pieces.
Repeat until
you have used all the dough. Put the busiate on a floured tray in a single
layer. Let them dry for about half an hour.
To
Make Pesto Trapanese
To make
pesto Trapanese start by toasting the peeled almonds in a pre-heated oven
350F/180C for about 10 minutes.
While the
almonds are toasting, peel the tomatoes, remove the seeds and chop into small
pieces.
When the
almonds have been toasted and have cooled, chop them. When they are coarsely
chopped take some out to garnish your dish, then continue until they are finely
chopped. You can do this by hand or with a robot.
For the next step, you can continue to use a robot or blender, starting with the basil and a pinch of salt.
Pulse (or
pound if you are doing this by hand) until the basil is smooth.
Add the
chopped almonds and a little olive oil. Continue to pulse (or pound) until you
have a coarse mix.
Add the
tomatoes and continue pulsing or pounding, thoroughly blending all of the
ingredients.
Pesto
Trapanese is ready when it reaches a coarse consistency. You can make this a
day ahead and store it in the refrigerator. You’ll find the flavors have
mellowed over night.
Boil the
busiate for about 8 minutes (or less) in a large amount of salted water. Test
the pasta after about 6 minutes. They may be ready. When they are cooked, drain
them. Heat a deep frying pan over a low flame and add the busiate and the pesto
alla Trapanese. Mix well. Serve on a warm dish with a sprinkle of almonds, a
basil leaf and a grind or two of black pepper.
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