CHIAVARI, Italy –
I saw a Facebook post a while back of an adorable little girl sitting at a
kitchen table with pasta dough spread out in front of her. Her grandmother was
teaching her how to make orecchiette.
The photo made me
smile and brought back memories of a trip I made to Bari a few years ago where I
saw other grandmothers and granddaughters sitting out at tables in the streets
in front of their houses doing the same thing, making orecchiette.
Pugliese food is fairly
simple to make and simply delicious. There are no complicated sauces or
techniques needed, just some good Pugliese olive oil, a little garlic and the
freshest ingredients you can get your hands on. Right now you can find
beautiful, blood red pomodorini – cherry tomatoes - in the markets
across Italy, which makes it the perfect time to make orecchiette with pomodorini.
But while this recipe
calls for pomodorini, orecchiette are also good with sausage, zucchini, broccoli,
alla carbonara, and even though I know I’m risking the wrath of the
Pugliese, I have to say they are good
with pesto too.
Orecchiette are a very
old pasta that originated in Bari sometime between the twelfth and thirteenth
century. Over time, early pasta makers developed the ear like shape which
allowed the pasta to dry faster. They were a big hit with the population,
bigger than the iphone or the ipad if you can imagine that, because when they
were dried they could be stored and used during a famine, an all too frequent
problem in Europe in the 1300 and 1400’s.
One of the things I’ve
learned from my Italian friends is that it’s best to keep fresh pasta in the
refrigerator, Like wine, fresh pasta has to ‘breathe so it’s best not to cover
it with Saran Wrap or other cling-films, or keep it in a closed plastic container.
Paper food containers or wrapping it in cooking paper are both okay, but the
best way to keep it is on a ceramic plate covered with a clean cotton cloth.
As for cooking fresh
pasta, you need plenty of salted water, and it’s important to put the pasta in
when the water is at a full rolling boil. When you drop the pasta in, the water
stops boiling so you have to turn up the heat for a minute or so in order to
bring it back to a boil. Once the water is boiling again, adjust the heat so it
boils gently. It’s not a good idea to cover the pot when cooking pasta as the
water will boil over.
Filled pasta is
another story. It should be dropped in the water just before it comes to a
boil, and then cooked with care. If it’s cooked too long, or if the heat is too
high, the pasta shapes may break or split open. But enough of my
prattle, let’s get on with good stuff.
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Orecchiette with Pomodorini
Serves 4
400 grams of fresh orecchiette
300 grams di arugula (rucola in Italian/ aka
rocket) or another type of bitter green
10 mature cherry tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
10 black olives
1/2 of a hot chili pepper or red pepper flakes
50 grams of aged ricotta (or
pecorino)
Extravergine Italian olive oil
salt
2 tablespoons of toasted breadcrumbs
(optional)
Wash the arugula under
running water and dry. Boil it in salted water for about 2 minutes, remove with
a slotted spoon and let cool. Then squeeze well to remove excess water. Save
the cooking water for the pasta.
Wash and peel the
cherry tomatoes, cut them into quarters and place in a colander. Sprinkle with
coarse salt and set aside. Peel the garlic and dice it, along with the pitted
olives.
Heat 4 tablespoons of
extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan, add the chopped garlic and olives, the
drained cherry tomatoes, chili pepper, stir and cook over moderate heat for
about 5 minutes.
Add the arugula,
season with salt and turn off the flame. Cook the orecchiette in the same water
that the arugula cooked in. When the pasta is cooked, (if you are using fresh
orecchiette they cooked rather quickly), drain and put them back in the pot and
add the sauce. Mix and cook together for 30 seconds. Turn off the flame. Serve
with a grated ricotta or pecorino, a few drops of olive oil and a sprinkle of
toasted breadcrumbs.
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