09 June 2013

LIFE: A Stroll Back in Time



CHIAVARI, Italy – I suppose by next year I’ll have gotten into the rhythm of life in Chiavari, but as it is now, I never know what I’m going to find when I walk out the door. 

 Antique Fair in Chiavari
 
Foto furniture Today was no different. I started out for the hardware store this morning to buy a piece that broke off from the bar that holds the shutters open, and it took me almost an hour to get to there. Not because it’s far, but because there is an antique fair in town this weekend, and there was no way I was going to be able to walk past those tables and not stop and look.


The first thing that caught my eye were the fishing lures. I liked the lady bug one. It brought back nice memories of when I was five years old and used to go fishing for sunfish down at the river with my father. Next to the guy selling the lures was a large display of old tools, all rusted and fierce looking and next to them was the contents of an entire furniture store.
 
 Bits of This n' That

There were all kinds of things to see besides furniture and old tools. There were dishes and dolls and old jewelry and I even saw a table selling French jewelry. I wanted to ask what the difference was between French jewelry and regular jewelry but the woman was busy and there were too many other things to see – plus I still had to get to the hardware store before it closed for lunch. 


Another thing that caught my eye was a yellow Liz Clairborn dress selling for €5, about $6.50. It was hanging next to a stiff green Emanuel Ungaro. The clothes were not in very good shape, but the vintage handbags and the collection of eyeglass frames were both pretty amazing in scope and quality.

 
Oh, My Goodness
The ceramics were pretty amazing as well. The most spectacular piece was a tall, highly decorated vase which was being offered next to a straw case that may have been a picnic basket – not the type of picnic basket that holds food, but the type that holds dishes and silverware and other la dee da things you don’t normally associate with picnics. Not any more anyway.


My Aunt Florence is a master doll maker and so when I saw the blonde doll in the pale lavender silk dress, I knew I had to know more about her. Her hair and make-up were perfect, her dress was beautifully made right down to the delicate lavender rose at her neckline, her long underskirt and her to-the-knees pantaloons finished with a lacy ruffle. Even her tiny little shoes were perfect. No detail had been overlooked.

Lovely Lady

At first I thought her face, which had a matte finish and was fairly realistic, was made of bisque.  But it turned out to be fabric. In fact the whole doll, except for her arms and legs (below the knees) was made of fabric.  The stall person didn’t know what the arms and legs were made of, but whatever it was it was very realistic both to see and touch.


She said the doll was over 100 years old and had been made by hand in Italy’s northern region of Piedmont. That part of northern Italy was once an important doll producing area, and today one of the most important doll museums in Europe is located in the castle of Rocca Boromero di Angera  on Lago Maggiore.

 
There's Something About Old Glass
Then I moved on when some antique linens caught my eye, and some colorful ceramic dishes. Then I fell in love with the pale pink selzer bottles, fickle sole that I am. I think if I ever settle down for any length of time, I would probably become a hoarder.  It’s only my lack of space that keeps my impulses in check.


I finally did make it to the hardware store, and just in the nick of time. They were getting ready to close and I had to wiggle and worm my way around the ladders and garden hoses and other things they had already brought in from their out in front of the store display area.
 
 Wrap it Up
While they truly have everything under the sun in that dark and narrow store, they didn’t have the piece I needed.  They said I’d have to go up to Carasco, which is a small village in the hills behind Chiavari where you can still find stuff like this.  No problem for me, my landlord lives in Carasco, so I’ll just put it in his hands and be happy that there is one less thing I will have to worry about this week. And that’s good because who knows what I’ll find to distract me the next time I walk out the door.

06 June 2013

AUNTIE PASTA: Vignola's Cherry Festival



CHIAVARI, Italy – I almost had a heart attack last week. I went into my nearest greengrocer to pick up a couple of things, and as I approached one of the shelving units a small black bird – a merlo - flew up, turned and fluttered out the window. The owner started to laugh at my startled reaction. “We put cherries on that shelf for the birds to eat otherwise they fly in a peck at everything,” she said.

 
Castle in Vignola 

It made sense to me. I was there for cherries too. This is cherry season and the cherries are coming in from Italy’s cherry capital, Vignola, a small town near Modena in Emilia-Romagna that was built near an ancient Etruscan road that connected Bologna to Parma. This weekend, 8-9 June, Vignola is holding its annual cherry festival.





Vignola, from the Latin vineola (small vine), is located near an ancient Etruscan road that connects Bologna to Parma. Some records show it was founded in the year 826 as a castle to protect the lands of the Abbey of Nonantola, which is nearby. The story of the cherries goes back even further, to the days of the Roman Empire.

Cherry Festival Vignola

The Roman general Lucius Licinius Lucullus is credited with being the person who first brought the seeds of the cherry tree to Italy. It’s possible. In his twenty year career as a military officer in the Roman Republic, he spent most of his time conquering the kingdoms of north-east Asia where the cherry tree is said to have originated.   




His primary interest, apart from being a soldier, was agriculture and he is the person who built the horti Lucullani, the famous Gardens of Lucullus on the Pincian Hill in Rome. So given his interest, it seems reasonable that he would slip a few cherry pits into his pocket to bring home and plant. 



It was good that he did because cherries not only taste delicious, but they are also good for you. In fact they seem to be a wonderfruit. They purify and detoxify your entire body and rebalance your intestines, and because of the amount of anthocyanins they contain, they are an anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving agent. Best of all, you only need 20 cherries a day to get all those incredible benefits.




When you buy them, look for cherries that are firm and have a nice, bright color and a stem that looks fresh, not dry. You can keep them for a few days you keep them in a cool place, like a refrigerator, stored in a plastic bag that has a lot of holes in it. However, it’s a good idea to keep them away from any aromatic food you may have in the fridge, like cheese, as cherries absorb odors. You can freeze them if you cook them first, either with the pit or without, and add a little sugar while they are cooking.

Bright, fresh cherries
Today’s recipe comes from The Art of Eating Well by Pelligrino Artusi. Artusi was a silk merchant with an interest in food. When he retired from the silk business he traveled around Italy collecting recipes from Italian mamas. He was the first to recognize the value of the dishes being created in their kitchens, and decided to put them in a book. Of course he had to take their vague cooking instructions and suggestions and turn them into recipes that readers could follow, but that effort resulted in La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene (The Art of Eating Well). And you’ll  ‘mangiar bene’ if you try his recipe for cherry pudding. This recipe is written exactly as it appears in his book.





DOLCE DI CIGLIEGE (Cherry Pudding)





½ cup minus 2 tablespoons (2 ounces) almonds

4 eggs, separated

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

½ cup bread crumbs

2 tablespoons rosolio* (substitute rose water or rose petal extract/oil)

Vanilla extract or lemon peel

½ pound (250 grams) raw, stemmed cherries





Peel, dry and mince the almonds, reducing them to half the size of a grain of rice.





Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture becomes frothy, then add the bread crumbs, the rosolio and the flavoring and stir the mixture (by hand) for a few more minutes.





Whip the egg whites until they are stiff and fold them in. Butter a smooth-sided mold and sprinkle it with the almonds, then pourin the batter and finally the cherries. To keep the almonds from sinking to the bottom mix some of them into the batter.





Bake the pudding in a preheated 350 degree oven for about half an hour or until the pudding sets. Serve it either hot or cold to four or five people.





*Rosolio is a cordial originally made from rose petals, rose oil and honey. It dates back to the 15th century and is said to have been a favorite drink of Caterini de’Medici. It is still made in Italy today, in Calabria and Sicily, and is used more as a flavoring in deserts and pastries than as a drink. Rosolino is a less alcoholic version of rosolio.





Unfortunately you won’t find it outside of Italy as it is not exported, but I don’t see why rose water or rose petal extract/oil can’t be used as a substitute. Just be careful not to use too much, you don’t want to overpower the flavor of the cherries. Give it a try.

02 June 2013

LIFE: It's an Ex-Pat's Life




CHIAVARI, Italy – There are times when living in another country is overwhelming. There is a part of you that wants to fit in, speak the language, celebrate the festas even if you don’t have a clue what is being celebrated. It’s part of the fun. But then there are times when you need to vent, blow off steam or figure out some Italian rule that is well, let’s say  totally incomprehensible, and while your best friend back home may lend a sympathetic ear, he or she really doesn’t have a clue what you are going on about.
 
 Ceri Festival in Gubbio

And sometimes you just need a little information, and while this may sound strange to those who have never experienced the joy of living in another country, there is no point in asking the natives, they don’t have a clue, especially when it comes to the rules and regs regarding foreigners. Not only are the rules tricky, they are subject to change without notice. So what was written in stone last month has now been cancelled and another set of rules and regs are in place.  

But the questions that are the trickiest are not the questions about identity cards, or driver’s licenses or how to get on the Italian health care system, but those nitty gritty problems of everyday life like where to buy cheddar cheese in Tuscany, or find a home for an abandoned cat or an old dog. Or maybe you want to know which type of insulation works best for an old stone farmhouse.  For answers to those questions, who do you turn to, or to be more precise, to whom do you turn?
 
 Your Dream House in Tuscany?
The answer is simple. Your fellow ex-pats. Someone out there in the ex-pat community – which is now easily reachable thanks to Facebook -  knows the answer to your question, or can tell you where to find the answer and do it in English or German or Russian or whatever your mother tongue language might be. The startling truth is ex-pats know more about living in Italy than the Italians do.


We have to. It’s more complicated for us.


It’s also true that some of the information being passed along the ex-pat optic fiber trail would benefit people visiting Italy, and so with that in mind I’m going to pass along a short list of hotels in Florence that I’ve collected from my favorite ex-pat page. The request came from a woman who asked if anyone knew of a reasonably priced hotel in Florence. They did, and here are some of their suggestions.


I will spare you the usual sales pitch that goes along with lists like these, you can check them out for yourself, but I think it’s a list worth keeping for your next trip to Italy.


THE FLORENCE FIVE PLUS ONE (not in any particular order)


1. Residenza Giotto B&B
Via Roma, 6 – 50123 Firenze (FI) – Italy
Tel. (+39) 055 214593 - Fax (+39) 055 2648568




2. Hotel Silla  (3 star)
Via De’Renai, 5
50100 Florence, Italy
Tel: 0039.055.2342888/Fax: 0039.055.2341437





3. Bed & Breakfast Bel Duomo
Borgo San Lorenzo, 4 - 50123 Firenze
Tel: +39 055 230 2602| Mobile: +39 339 587 8276
info@bedandbreakfastbelduomo.com
www.guesthousebelcanto  (I know this says Bel Canto and the B&B is Bel Duomo, but it is their web site).
 
4. Hotel Casci (2 star)
Via Cavour, 13 - 50129 Firenze
Tel: +39.055.211.686 Fax: +39.055.239.6461
Email: info@hotelcasci.com






5. Hotel David
Viale Michelangiolo n° 1
50125 Firenze
skype-me: hoteldavid





6. Residenza Johanna I (3 star)
Via Bonifacio Lupi, 14 - 50129 Firenze
Tel +39 055 481896
www.johanna.it


Oh, and one more thing. A new member of my ex-pat group, Australian singer/songwriter Darren Cinque has just posted his latest music video on YouTube and it’s getting rave reviews. So check it out, I think you’ll like it, and if you do pass it on. Who knows, you may end up moving to Italy some day and he’ll be singing to you, or….. about you.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OL6JRUK0Nk